Painting DIY

 Of all the household DIY tasks, painting walls and ceilings must be the easiest and most rewarding, providing you follow some simple (but perhaps tedious) preparation work to achieve a professional finish. Before you begin, have a close look at the surfaces you are planning to paint - look at them from both sides and not just "flat-on", as some of the problems are only visible when seen obliquely. Are there any holes, cracks, or areas of peeling or bubbling paint? Before you go out to buy materials, use a paint scraper, putty knife or an old kitchen knife to see how extensive the problem is.

If there are cracks wider than 1cm, it may be worth monitoring the crack for a few months - at the widest part of the crack, draw a pencil line on the wall with a ruler and make a note of the crack width. Measure the gap every two weeks and keep a record. If it varies or is getting bigger, it would be a good idea to call in a structural engineer before painting as you may be covering up a defect that could be serious.

If the surface shows signs of  bubbling or damp, is this quite recent? You may have just moved into your home, so as with the crack, it may be worth waiting a few weeks to see how this varies over time, as it may be an indicator of a cracked water pipe built into the wall, or rising damp. Some plumbers have leak-detecting equipment, which is a good idea if the painting is urgent, since they can isolate the problem (sometimes at quite a distance from the damp patch) and carry out the repair.

Now, time for a shopping list. To complete the surface preparation, if the wall is very dirty, or you are repainting a kitchen, get some sugar-soap, which comes ready mixed, or in powder form. This will remove dirt and oily grime very efficiently, but is quite messy, so make sure that all horizontal surfaces, especially floors, are well protected. I have a collection of plastic drop cloths, which will also be useful when the actual painting begins.

For filling holes and small cracks, a cellulose filler is ideal - in South Africa, the most popular brand is Polyfilla, which you mix with a little water. Make it as stiff as you can, while keeping it workable, as this will be stronger and easier to work with than a sloppy goo. Use your paint scraper to push it into the holes and cracks and smooth it off. You will also need some sandpaper - a medium grade is good for walls and ceilings - to sand off the crack filler when completely dry, and to sand the edges where you have removed loose paint.

Do any sanding and repairs to any woodwork or metal before you start painting - these may just need a good wash, but for very shiny surfaces. buff them lightly with a fine-grain sandpaper to provide a good grip for the new paint.

For a professional finish, it is good to remove all the electrical cover-plates (light switches and plug outlets), and any door-knobs and window ironmongery that is screwed in. For those with concealed fixings, you may just have to paint around them. 

Before you begin painting, make an assessment of your skills. If you have a completely steady hand you probably will not need to mask off window and door frames, skirtings and built-in fittings. But if you are a normal mortal, or if you are painting adjacent surfaces with different colours, it is a good idea to invest in some masking-tape. It is also a good idea to tape the drop cloths to the edge of the floor or skirting.

Paint technology has made great strides in the last few decades, so you can now get water-based paints and varnishes for almost every application. This will save you much time and hassle in cleaning your equipment and any spills, which just need a damp cloth (always have one to hand - an old t-shirt is perfect). The exception is Universal Undercoat, a product that I have found is worth the expense and extra time, especially if you are painting over a very dark or bold colour, or over a gloss paint, as this provides a very good foundation. The undercoat will not seem to have covered very evenly, as it is slightly translucent, but just as long as you have not left any gaps, it will do its magic. Check the label on the container - you will need paint thinners or turpentine to clean your brushed before you paint the top coat. Be sure to have your brushes completely dry between oil-based and water-based coats.

I have found over time, that it is worth the expense of having a dedicated brush for oil-based paints such as undercoat, and separate applicators for my water-based materials. For large surfaces, a paint-roller is a huge benefit, for consistent coverage and for speed. Here I always use a purpose-made paint tray, as the grooves help to distribute the paint evenly on the roller. Also get a 25 to 30mm paint brush for the edges, and paint around frames and fittings before using the roller. There is a knack to getting a superior finish with a roller, which is to work up and down for several strokes, and then at right angles.

When the paint is completely dry (usually several hours, but longer in cool or very humid weather), look at the surface from several angles to see whether this first "final coat" is sufficient for perfect coverage. It is worth the extra effort of a second coat if needed.

Doors, windows and fittings are best pained after the ceilings and walls. Again, use masking tape to mask the edges that you have already painted. With wood or metal, I like to use an eggshell finish (also called semi-gloss), as this is easy to clean, but visually much more forgiving of slightly uneven surfaces than full-gloss - very important when repainting in my 1930s apartment.

As a final touch, once you have removed the drop cloths and any remaining masking tape, do a thorough check for any paint drips - floors and glazing are the most likely places where a stray brushstroke has left a mark. If you catch these soon after painting, you can often just use a damp cloth, but more stubborn marks may need paint thinners.